A Hermès date stamp is a single letter pressed into the leather that records the year a bag was made. The frame around the letter tells you which cycle of the alphabet it belongs to: no frame from 1945 to 1970, a circle from 1971 to 1996, a square from 1997 to 2014, and no frame again from 2015, when the letters stopped following alphabetical order. Find the stamp, note the letter and its frame, then read the year from the chart below.
The chart is the easy part. What a specialist adds is knowing where the stamp hides on each model, and what it can never prove on its own.
What a Hermès date stamp is, and what sits beside it
Hermès marks its leather goods with blind stamps: small impressions made with heat and pressure, with no ink or foil. The date letter is one of them. Next to it you will usually find a second mark, the artisan's identifier, which records the craftsperson who made the piece. A Birkin or Kelly is traditionally assembled from start to finish by one artisan in a French workshop, so that discreet code is, in effect, a signature.
Together, these marks are what the resale world calls Hermès date codes. They are not serial numbers. Every bag made in a given year shares the same letter, and an artisan's mark repeats across everything that person makes. What the stamps give you is context.
Two other marks are worth recognising. A small horseshoe shaped stamp indicates a special order, a bag made to a client's chosen combination of leather, colours and hardware. On exotic skins, a tiny symbol is usually added beside the Made in France stamp to identify the type of skin. Both are useful cross-checks against what a seller tells you.
How the Hermès year stamp system works
The frame around the letter defines the era: learn the four frames and you can date most bags at a glance.
1945 to 1970: a letter on its own
The earliest dated pieces carry a plain letter, from A in 1945 through to Z in 1970. Documentation for these decades is thinner than for later ones, and stamps on leather this old have often softened, so treat an early reading as a strong hint and let construction, lining and hardware confirm it.
1971 to 1996: the circle
In 1971 the alphabet began again, this time with each letter set inside a circle. A circled A is 1971 and a circled Z is 1996. Many vintage Kelly bags on the resale market date from this period.
1997 to 2014: the square
From 1997 the letter moved into a square, starting again at A and reaching R in 2014. The square cycle never got as far as S, which gives you a quick sanity test: a squared S, T or any later letter does not match a year in the published sequence.
2015 onward: no frame, and no order
In 2015 the frame disappeared and the alphabet stopped running in sequence. 2015 is T, 2016 is X, 2017 is A, 2018 is C, 2019 is D, 2020 is Y, 2021 is Z, 2022 is U, 2023 is B and 2024 is W. You cannot count your way to a modern year; you have to look it up. An unframed A could in theory be 1945 or 2017, but the construction settles that in seconds.
We have deliberately stopped the modern column at 2024. Letters for the newest production are still being recorded from too few bags to print with confidence.
The complete Hermès date stamp chart
Find the letter in the first column, then read across to the frame you see on the bag. "Not used" means that combination of letter and frame does not appear in the published sequence.
| Letter | No frame (1945 to 1970) | Circle (1971 to 1996) | Square (1997 to 2014) | No frame (2015 onward) |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| A | 1945 | 1971 | 1997 | 2017 |
| B | 1946 | 1972 | 1998 | 2023 |
| C | 1947 | 1973 | 1999 | 2018 |
| D | 1948 | 1974 | 2000 | 2019 |
| E | 1949 | 1975 | 2001 | Not used |
| F | 1950 | 1976 | 2002 | Not used |
| G | 1951 | 1977 | 2003 | Not used |
| H | 1952 | 1978 | 2004 | Not used |
| I | 1953 | 1979 | 2005 | Not used |
| J | 1954 | 1980 | 2006 | Not used |
| K | 1955 | 1981 | 2007 | Not used |
| L | 1956 | 1982 | 2008 | Not used |
| M | 1957 | 1983 | 2009 | Not used |
| N | 1958 | 1984 | 2010 | Not used |
| O | 1959 | 1985 | 2011 | Not used |
| P | 1960 | 1986 | 2012 | Not used |
| Q | 1961 | 1987 | 2013 | Not used |
| R | 1962 | 1988 | 2014 | Not used |
| S | 1963 | 1989 | Not used | Not used |
| T | 1964 | 1990 | Not used | 2015 |
| U | 1965 | 1991 | Not used | 2022 |
| V | 1966 | 1992 | Not used | Not used |
| W | 1967 | 1993 | Not used | 2024 |
| X | 1968 | 1994 | Not used | 2016 |
| Y | 1969 | 1995 | Not used | 2020 |
| Z | 1970 | 1996 | Not used | 2021 |
Two points to keep in mind when you read a Hermès stamp year from the chart. The letter marks the year of manufacture, not the year of sale, so a bag stamped late in one year may have reached a boutique the following spring. And the year says nothing about condition: a 2009 bag that has lived in its dust bag can be in finer shape than one made last year and carried every day.
Where to find the date stamp on each Hermès bag
The Hermès stamp is always somewhere discreet, and the house has moved it over the years. Bring a small torch: blind stamps read best in raking light, with the beam held almost parallel to the leather so the edges of the impression cast a shadow.
Birkin
On a Birkin made before about 2015 to 2016, the date stamp is on the underside of the left strap; on later bags it is inside, near the top of the back wall, towards the left. If you are still choosing a format, our Birkin sizes guide compares the 25, 30 and 35 side by side.
Kelly
On older Kellys, look under the left strap; on bags from around 2016 onward, look inside on the back wall near the top. A pre-owned vintage Kelly 35 in red leather with gold-plated hardware is the kind of piece where you would expect a framed letter under the strap rather than inside. Smaller formats can differ: on some Kelly 25 bags the stamp runs vertically or sits close to the interior pocket, so on a piece such as this pre-owned Kelly 25 Sellier in smoke grey and blue Epsom, check the straps, the back wall and the pocket before concluding anything. Our Kelly sizes guide covers every size.
Constance
On a Constance, the date stamp sits on an interior panel, so open the flap fully and check the inside walls and the area around the pocket.
Evelyne
On an Evelyne, look on the inner panels, often low near the base, or beneath the front flap close to the closure. Press the soft leather gently flat while you light it.
Garden Party
On a Garden Party, the stamp is usually on a leather interior panel close to a seam. On canvas versions, check the leather trim first.
Herbag
On a Herbag, the stamp is normally on a leather part inside the bag, near a seam, in much the same way as on the Garden Party.
Lindy
On a Lindy, the date stamp is usually on an interior panel near a side seam, or under the front flap close to the clasp.
Picotin
On a Picotin, the stamp is on the inside of the bag, usually on the inner wall just below the rim or near the base. On grained leathers, such as the hammered finish of this pre-owned Picotin Lock 18 in gold, the impression can be shallow and often appears only when you tilt the leather under a lamp. Our Picotin sizes guide explains how the 14, 18 and 22 compare.
Bolide
On a Bolide, the date stamp is inside: on recent smaller versions, look first on the interior pocket; on larger bags, check the interior panels close to a seam.
Small leather goods
On wallets and card holders, the stamps usually sit inside a card slot or beneath a fold.
What a correct stamp can and cannot tell you
A correct stamp is necessary but never sufficient. Good copies reproduce the letter, the frame and an artisan mark, precisely because those are the first details buyers check. Treat the stamp as one line of evidence among many, never as proof.
Signs that deserve a second look
A stamp deserves a closer look when it does not fit the system, the bag or the period:
- A combination that does not exist, such as a squared letter later than R.
- A year that does not fit the bag: a leather, colour or hardware finish the house was not offering at the time.
- Ink, colour or foil inside the date stamp, which should be a clean blind impression.
- A wobbly frame, uneven depth, or letters that look printed rather than pressed.
- A stamp in the wrong place for the period, such as an interior stamp on a bag whose other features all point to the 1990s.
Repair stamps are not a red flag
A second artisan mark, sometimes with its own date letter, can appear on a bag that has been returned to the house for repair or reconditioning. Specialists read it as history, not as a warning. If a seller mentions a service, ask roughly when it took place and whether the stamps reflect it. The two stories should agree.
Using the stamp when you buy pre-owned
When buying pre-owned, use the stamp as your first filter rather than your verdict, in this order:
- Ask for a sharp, close photograph of the stamps in raking light before discussing anything else.
- Read the letter and frame, and check them against the chart.
- Compare that year with the model, leather, colour and hardware the seller describes.
- Look at the Hermès Paris Made in France stamp on the front: even spacing, clean edges and, where it is foiled, a colour that matches the hardware, gold with gold and silver with palladium.
- Then move to the rest of the bag: the slightly slanted saddle stitching, the finish of the edges, and the weight and engraving of the hardware.
Our guide to buying a pre-owned designer bag walks through the full process, and the authentication checks counterfeiters still fail covers the details copies get wrong most often. You can also read how we source and inspect each piece on our Sourcing and Authenticity page.
One more point that experienced buyers watch for: the gap between "new" and "recent". A Birkin offered in new condition, such as this Birkin 30 in Noir Togo with gold hardware, will usually carry a recent letter. If a bag described as new carries a stamp from many years earlier, it may be unused older stock rather than recent production. That is fine, provided it is described plainly.
Does the year change the value?
Often, though not always in the direction people expect. Many resale buyers favour a recent stamp, partly for condition and partly for the reassurance of current production. Vintage collectors may prize a circled letter on a well kept Kelly. Leather, colour and condition usually matter more than the letter.
Shop the look
- Vintage Hermès Kelly 35 in Red Leather with Gold-Plated Hardware
Hermès Kelly 25 Sellier in Smoke Grey and Blue Epsom Leather with Palladium Hardware
Hermès Picotin Lock 18 in Gold Hammered Leather with Gold Hardware
Hermès Birkin 30 in Noir Togo Leather with Gold Hardware
Hermès Birkin 25 Vintage in Graphite Grey Shiny Crocodile with Gold Hardware
Hermès Birkin 30 in Bleu Jean Epsom Leather with Palladium Hardware
Frequently asked questions
What year is a Hermès bag with a T stamp?
A plain T with no frame is 2015. A T inside a circle is 1990. A T inside a square does not match any year in the published sequence, because the square cycle ended at R in 2014.
Where is the date stamp on a Hermès Birkin?
On older Birkins, look on the underside of the left strap. On bags made from around 2015 to 2016 onward, look inside the bag near the top of the back wall, usually towards the left side.
Can a Hermès bag have no date stamp?
Some very early pieces, certain small items and leather that has been heavily worn or restored may show a faint or missing stamp. On a Birkin or Kelly, an absent stamp is unusual enough that the bag should be examined by a specialist before you buy.
Does a correct date stamp prove a Hermès bag is real?
No. Stamps are copied along with everything else. A correct stamp simply removes one reason for doubt, while the stitching, leather, hardware and overall construction carry far more weight.
What does a circle around the Hermès letter mean?
The circle marks the second cycle of the system, which ran from 1971 to 1996. A circled C, for example, dates a bag to 1973.
Why are recent Hermès letters out of alphabetical order?
The house has not explained the change publicly. In practice it means you should always read a modern letter from a reliable chart rather than counting forward from the last one you know.
Keep this Hermès date stamp chart bookmarked: it is the quickest way to place any bag in its decade. With the chart in hand, the stamp becomes the first and quickest check on any piece. Browse our Hermès collection, from Birkin and Kelly to everyday Hermès totes, and use it to read the story behind the bag that catches your eye.
